Puerto Rico 2018 - Day 4 - Surfing is not getting old....




Brian Ramos is teaching surfing these days.


 Surfing is not getting old....
I was going for the coveted triple-entendre... but, I'll settle for a double.


Surfing is not getting old....
Today was brutal.  La Pared (English translation:  Wall) near Luquillo, Puerto Rico was really giving us the business today.  The area where we were focused happened to be between to rip current areas.  Waves were smaller, but seem to be breaking every 5 to 15 seconds - and from different directions.  I definitely worked for it today.

Surfing: is not getting old....
I think it also signifies and exemplifies... the overly used adage:  You're only as old as you feel.  And I do feel a little beat up.  The board hit me in the head at some point, which is minor compared to getting stitches from water skiing in San Diego when I was in the Navy.  Christ.

There really IS something spiritual about surfing.  The sound of the waves crashing... the surf rushing back out to sea... getting pummeled by a wave you just bailed from.  The occasional blinding sun when you're trying to get your bearing.

This year marks my 46th turn on this earth... and the first time in 28 years that I have actually surfed (last year was the first time on a board since 1992, and while I was able to get up on the first paddle... I never felt as though I had "surfed") and I think I can get used to surfing regularly again.  Now I just need to convince myself that SoCal is worth the rent prices (and maybe sell my house in the midwest?)

And I have to put a plug out there for some great folks (April, Brian, and their daughter Nazare) at Surfing Puerto Rico.  Seriously, I could not have expected a better experience.  They are so low-key, yet the results were significant.

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